Vendor Belgo Piece
Since its inception Calgary’s Belgo Bistro attempted to embrace the nuances of the Belgian café. Unfortunately, for me, it never fully delivered on the marriage of beer and food at the dinner table. Hearing rumours of a new beer sommelier and a new executive chef, I knew this beer scribe had to give Belgo a second chance.
My wife and I are born two days apart and a dinner reservation was made to celebrate both birthdays. We stated that we were interested in a modest evening with a focus on beer and food pairings. Thinking we were getting a regular table in the restaurant we arrived to find the chef’s table set with all the appropriate glassware for each beer and course. To top this off we had the undivided attention and care of Executive Chef Chris Joyce.
When making the reservation we were asked if we had anything in mind and we requested to be surprised. Wowed would turn out to be the better word:
1st course
Petrus Aged Pale Ale (Belgium 7.3% ABV): Right away I knew executive chef Chris Joyce was a serious beer fan as this beer is not a choice of the casual beer drinker. This soured ale has big notes of apple cider and is somewhat reminiscent of champagne with a slightly acidic woody finish. The beer itself could be an amuse bouche, but Chris started us off with saffron risotto balls. These were crunchy on the outside and creamy inside, paired with the sour champagne quality of the beer this course was a match made in heaven. The perfect start to this evening of “gastro-porn”!
2nd course
Unibroue Chambly Noire (Quebec 6.2% ABV): Coupled with a dry curry rubbed panfried shrimp this Belgian styled French Canadian dark ale lost the battle to the crustacean. Perhaps “prawn” would be more appropriate, as I believe these giant sea creatures had to be harpooned to land on our table. This was the weakest pairing of the night as the beer was not a strong enough match for the curry, but still proved delicious.
3rd course
Petrus Blond (Belgium 6.6% ABV); Belgo makes its own luscious fois gras and serves it with a lovely summer plum jam. Chris matched it with the junior Petrus. This is the base beer for the soured version in the first course. A bigger Belgian Golden Ale or Triple with slightly more carbonation would have been a better foil for the richness of the fois gras.
4th course
Brew Dog Paradox (Scotland 10% ABV) The Paradox was the biggest surprise of the night. The Paradox is a big smoky roast-y Russian Imperial Stout that has been further matured in used whiskey casks. This beer has more in common with an Islay scotch than beer and that is a good thing. This palate bruiser of a brew paired perfectly with the veal cheeks and confit combination, the caramelized flavours of the veal and the smokiness of this brew caused this writer’s taste buds to dance.
5th course
St Bernardus Abt 12 (Belgium 10.5 ABV): This beer has always scared me a bit; it’s delicious and disappears too fast. Paired with a homemade whisky pecan tart this was the star attraction of the night. The tart’s nutty pecans with a hint of sherry-finished whisky melded perfectly with the dark chocolaty flavours of this heavenly nectar.
Our anticipation of the evening was greatly surpassed and I am already dreaming of next year’s birthday dinner. Chris admitted that beer and food pairings were somewhat new to him but I have a feeling Chris will put Calgary and Belgo on the map in the years to come. A reservation at Belgo’s chef’s table should not be missed.
Belgo is currently running cooking classes on Saturday afternoons please check their website.
Mike Tessier has gained 15 pounds in the great Bieres et Cuisine bistros of the world. He is glad that a place like Belgo exists in his home town of Calgary and hopes he can maintain his current girlish figure.
